Henna is a small tree, and its leaves contain a dye which stains your skin – similar to turmeric or beets. However, with henna, the dye molecule (lawsone) binds to the keratin in your skin, so the stain can’t be washed off. It only fades as your skin naturally renews itself.
Henna can also refer to the temporary body art resulting from the staining of the skin from the dyes (see also mehndi). After henna stains reach their peak color, they hold for a few days, then gradually wear off by way of exfoliation, typically within one to three weeks.
Mehndi is a form of body art and temporary skin decoration originating in ancient India, in which decorative designs are created on a person’s body, using a paste, created from the powdered dry leaves of the henna plant (Lawsonia inermis). Dating back to ancient India, mehndi is still a popular form of body art among the women of the Indian subcontinent, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal, the Maldives, Africa and the Middle East. In the late 1990s, mehndi decorations became fashionable in the West, popularized by Indian cinema and entertainment industry, where they are called henna tattoos.
What is henna made of?
Natural henna paste is made from the dried, powdered leaves of the henna plant (Lawsonia inermis). The powder is mixed with lemon juice, sugar, and essential oils. The lemon juice and essential oils help release the dye, and the sugar gives the paste a smooth texture so it stays on the skin.
That’s all real henna needs. I use only 100% natural, chemical-free henna paste — no PPD and no “black henna.” See exactly what goes into my henna paste.
How does henna work on skin?
The henna leaf contains a reddish-orange dye molecule called lawsone. While the paste sits on your skin, lawsone slowly moves out of the paste and binds to keratin, the protein in the outer layer of your skin. That’s why the paste needs time: the longer it stays on, the more dye your skin takes up.
Henna only stains the top, dead layer of skin. Nothing goes under the skin the way it does with a tattoo, so henna is painless and temporary. Read more about the difference between henna and a tattoo.
How does mehendi work, from paste to stain?
- Application: the paste is piped onto the skin with a cone and dries in about 15–20 minutes.
- Waiting: leave the paste on for at least 4–6 hours, or overnight, so the dye can bind to your skin.
- Removal: scrape the dried paste off instead of washing it. The stain starts out bright orange.
- Darkening: over the next 24–48 hours the stain darkens to a rich reddish brown.
Palms and fingers get the darkest stains because the skin there is thickest. My henna aftercare tips explain how to get the darkest color.
How long does henna last?
A natural henna stain usually lasts 1 to 3 weeks. It doesn’t wash off; it fades gradually as your skin naturally exfoliates.
Want henna for a wedding, party, or event? See my henna services or book Avani Henna.
Henna has been used since antiquity to dye skin, hair, and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool and leather.